WEEKLY SHAVING SOAP REVIEW

[Bladerunner7]

SIR HENRY’S – KENTUCKY RAIN SHAVE SOAP​

First Look - Brand name, shaving soap name, country of manufacture, fragrance notes and the product’s promise, that’s what adorns the cover of Sir Henry’s ‘Kentucky Rain’ shave soap. Simple at first glance but if you look at the colors again, the Blue White and Gold represent the State Flag of Kentucky with only the green missing from the soap tub’s cover. It may be a simple label to look at, but its characteristic branding makes it an easily recognizable product of The Black Tie Razor company and that works for me.

Side note – Sir Henry’s is a brand owned by The Black Tie Razor Company started by three friend’s - Brad, Dominick and Joe over a couple of drinks. The trio were passionate about the joy of old school wet shaving and wanted to share it with other shavers by creating a high quality shaving soap. Trials and tests with their new shaving soap led the trio to develop an entire range of shaving gear with a strong focus on the software.

First Whiff – Dominik, one third of the Black Tie Razor Company partnership and the most active on social media confirmed that the soap was a tribute to all things Kentucky before it was launched. The aim was to capture the ‘Run for the Roses’, the ‘Bourbon’ the state is known for and the ‘leather of a saddle.’ So why roses when the Goldenrod is the state flower of Kentucky ? The iconic Kentucky Derby is also known as the ‘Run Of The Roses’ because a Lush blanket of 554 Roses is awarded to the winner each year., a tradition that dates back to 1896. I’m a fan of Rose, Bourbon and Leather and had great expectations when I took a first whiff, only to be left a bit confused. The most forward scent note was leather, not the masculine and overpowering kind that inhabits most premium men’s EDT or aftershaves but a gentle one. The leather note reminded me more of the big brand ladies handbags, a second whiff and the rose came through, it wasn’t that strong flowery fragrance but a soft note that complemented the leather. A third whiff followed but that boozy note eluded me entirely, I’m a Bourbon guy and that’s all I ever drink beside an occasional Vodka, I could sniff a Stagg Jr, an Eagle Rare, a Woodford Reserve or a Blanton’s from two miles away so it definitely wasn’t my nose. What I did get though was a kind of woody or sandalwood powdery dry down with a hint of vanilla, pleasant but not what I was expecting. Don’t get me wrong, this soap has a good fragrance but it just wasn’t up to my liking.

First Lather – I wasn’t blown away by the scent of Kentucky rain and was expecting the lather to make up for it. I proceeded to swirl my Yaqi Purple Mink Synthetic brush in my HC & Co lather bowl with a teaspoon of soap and two tablespoons of water. It took me sixty seconds to see a nice pasty lather form, adding a tablespoon more of water I kept working the soap for another two minutes and that was enough to produce a dense and luxurious lather. This isn't a thirsty soap and I was very impressed with the lather quality.

First Performance – What better to test the soap’s performance with then your sharpest blade and a fairly aggressive razor, so a 2013 Muhle R41 loaded with a Kai was employed. I had a two pass BBS with a decent amount of residual slickness post shave. It is in the actual shave that this soap shines with excellent cushion and protection, it provided superb glide for the razor as well and remember that missing note of Bourbon, it came through often during the lathering process. The magic of this soap's performance lies in the generous dose of quality ingredients including tallow and rich veggie butters blended together in the right amount. The ingredients are stearic acid, coconut oil, tallow, castor oil, kokum butter, water, fragrance, shea butter, jojoba oil, avocado oil, sodium lactate and glycerin, not too many but just perfect.

First Opinion – Sir Henry’s, a premium brand of The Black Tie Razor company often flies under the radar and though I wasn’t blown away by the fragrance, ‘Kentucky Rain’ is a top tier soap with a terrific base that offers great bang for your buck being a 7 ounce pour. This is a soap I will keep in my den always, specially when I need a reliable lather partner. I’m on the hunt for Sir Henry’s other offerings now and I highly recommend that you do the same.

Cover Art Work – 6 / 10

Lather Quality – 9 / 10

Fragrance – 6 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 10 / 10

Slickness – 9 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 9 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 59 / 70

Availability – https://www.sirhenryssundries.com/kentucky-rain-shave-soap-aftershave/ and https://wetshaving.store/products/search?keyword=sir henrys

 

[Bladerunner7]

THE CAJUN BLADE – “FORÉT DE PINS”​

First Look - “I believe in miracles, Where you from, you sexy thing?,” that opening line from the Hot Chocolate hit featured in ‘The Full Monty,’ that’s what I’m reminded of when I look at the soap tub’s cover. A second glance at the whole picture reveals more with the soap’s title, “Forét De Pins” in Cajun French which simply translates to 'Forest of the Pines.' The Pine forest in the background is what this soap’s fragrance is all about. This is a well thought of illustration that would appeal to every lad that I know and it makes for an edgy yet unique cover.

Side note – Eric Hebert, the artisan behind the Cajun Blade shaving soaps is a die hard straight razor shaver and his line of soaps was originally created for that purpose mainly for personal use. The desire to share his product with other shavers led him to starting a small home made line of soaps. Every hot processed soap is crafted in small batches by hand using the best available and natural ingredients. The artisan himself is proudly Cajun. The Cajuns are an ethnic group in South Louisiana, USA that are known for their Cajun French language, culture, music, and awesome food.

First Whiff – “Forét De Pins” was meant to be a homage to the coastal pine forests of the South in the USA where Eric being an outdoors man spends a lot of his time. The aroma of the spring time with the pines in bloom during Turkey season is what the fragrance profile of the soap is described as. At first whiff, I get a fairly strong pine sap note, a second whiff and the woodsy undertones come through with a hint of fresh leaves on forest trees and fresh pine needles. This isn’t an overwhelming or sharp pine fragrance but one that is fresh and extremely pleasant. A strong inhalation of this soap’s fragrance with closed eyes is good enough to transport you to the midst of a pine forest. I am not a fan of Pine scents in shaving soaps which are often too medicinal, woody or strong for my nose but this one appeals to me big time.

First Lather – “Forét De Pins” contains Beef Tallow, Cocoa Butter, Kokum Butter, Stearic Acid, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Vegetable glycerin, Honey, African Black Soap, NAOH, KOH, H2O, Fragrance and Essential oils. The TCB2” beef tallow base is a tallow rich soap and I was excited to try it out. I bloomed a tea spoon of the soap with two table spoons of warm water for 5 minutes in my Hendrix Classics & Co Stainless Steel lather bowl. Using my Yaqi Evil Zebra Synthetic I started working up a lather and after sixty seconds of brush rotations, I had a fairly dense result. Adding two more table spoons of water I proceeded with ninety seconds of swirling the brush clockwise and anticlockwise. I was surprised at how rich and dense the lather turned out. The closest comparison to this would be a really thick hair mousse but a lot denser.

First Performance – I was so impressed by the lather quality and even more when I painted the first few strokes of it on my cheeks. That mid strength fresh pine fragrance started bursting forth on my face and it was very refreshing, I could even detect a slight citrusy note in there now. I decided to go with my Stirling Standard aggressive razor and a new Feather blade for this one. I had a two pass BBS result on five days of growth and the soap made the razor feel like a smooth forgiving tool. The cushion and protection was excellent but the stand out quality of this soap was the residual slickness, after all this was initially created for straight razor aficionados. This is one super slick shaving soap. The post shave feel was what intrigued me, I didn’t need any after shave balm or splash as my skin felt well moisturized. The addition of African Black soap plays a big role here. The Iconic African black with the ash of roasted plantain skins or cocoa pods is highly regarded for its natural exfoliating and antibacterial properties, which can help prevent razor bumps and irritation while fighting off yeast and fungal infections.

First Opinion – “Forét De Pins” like other Cajun Blade shaving soaps often flies under the radar due to a lack of strong advertising and social media presence but for me this soap is top shelf in performance. The 3.5 ounce pour may not wow you with it’s fragrance strength but the ability to capture the scent notes true to the original source while conveying the actual theme of the soap perfectly is a winner for me. This is a soap created with a lot of passion by the artisan, Highly recommended.

Cover Art Work – 8 / 10

Lather Quality – 10 / 10

Fragrance – 7 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 8 / 10

Slickness – 10 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 8 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 61 / 70

Availability – https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheCajunBladeStore, thecajunblade@gmail.com (for customization and queries)

 

[Gargravarr]

THE CAJUN BLADE – “FORÉT DE PINS”​

First Look - “I believe in miracles, Where you from, you sexy thing?,” that opening line from the Hot Chocolate hit featured in ‘The Full Monty,’ that’s what I’m reminded of when I look at the soap tub’s cover. A second glance at the whole picture reveals more with the soap’s title, “Forét De Pins” in Cajun French which simply translates to 'Forest of the Pines.' The Pine forest in the background is what this soap’s fragrance is all about. This is a well thought of illustration that would appeal to every lad that I know and it makes for an edgy yet unique cover.

Side note – Eric Hebert, the artisan behind the Cajun Blade shaving soaps is a die hard straight razor shaver and his line of soaps was originally created for that purpose mainly for personal use. The desire to share his product with other shavers led him to starting a small home made line of soaps. Every hot processed soap is crafted in small batches by hand using the best available and natural ingredients. The artisan himself is proudly Cajun. The Cajuns are an ethnic group in South Louisiana, USA that are known for their Cajun French language, culture, music, and awesome food.

First Whiff – “Forét De Pins” was meant to be a homage to the coastal pine forests of the South in the USA where Eric being an outdoors man spends a lot of his time. The aroma of the spring time with the pines in bloom during Turkey season is what the fragrance profile of the soap is described as. At first whiff, I get a fairly strong pine sap note, a second whiff and the woodsy undertones come through with a hint of fresh leaves on forest trees and fresh pine needles. This isn’t an overwhelming or sharp pine fragrance but one that is fresh and extremely pleasant. A strong inhalation of this soap’s fragrance with closed eyes is good enough to transport you to the midst of a pine forest. I am not a fan of Pine scents in shaving soaps which are often too medicinal, woody or strong for my nose but this one appeals to me big time.

First Lather – “Forét De Pins” contains Beef Tallow, Cocoa Butter, Kokum Butter, Stearic Acid, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Vegetable glycerin, Honey, African Black Soap, NAOH, KOH, H2O, Fragrance and Essential oils. The TCB2” beef tallow base is a tallow rich soap and I was excited to try it out. I bloomed a tea spoon of the soap with two table spoons of warm water for 5 minutes in my Hendrix Classics & Co Stainless Steel lather bowl. Using my Yaqi Evil Zebra Synthetic I started working up a lather and after sixty seconds of brush rotations, I had a fairly dense result. Adding two more table spoons of water I proceeded with ninety seconds of swirling the brush clockwise and anticlockwise. I was surprised at how rich and dense the lather turned out. The closest comparison to this would be a really thick hair mousse but a lot denser.

First Performance – I was so impressed by the lather quality and even more when I painted the first few strokes of it on my cheeks. That mid strength fresh pine fragrance started bursting forth on my face and it was very refreshing, I could even detect a slight citrusy note in there now. I decided to go with my Stirling Standard aggressive razor and a new Feather blade for this one. I had a two pass BBS result on five days of growth and the soap made the razor feel like a smooth forgiving tool. The cushion and protection was excellent but the stand out quality of this soap was the residual slickness, after all this was initially created for straight razor aficionados. This is one super slick shaving soap. The post shave feel was what intrigued me, I didn’t need any after shave balm or splash as my skin felt well moisturized. The addition of African Black soap plays a big role here. The Iconic African black with the ash of roasted plantain skins or cocoa pods is highly regarded for its natural exfoliating and antibacterial properties, which can help prevent razor bumps and irritation while fighting off yeast and fungal infections.

First Opinion – “Forét De Pins” like other Cajun Blade shaving soaps often flies under the radar due to a lack of strong advertising and social media presence but for me this soap is top shelf in performance. The 3.5 ounce pour may not wow you with it’s fragrance strength but the ability to capture the scent notes true to the original source while conveying the actual theme of the soap perfectly is a winner for me. This is a soap created with a lot of passion by the artisan, Highly recommended.

Cover Art Work – 8 / 10

Lather Quality – 10 / 10

Fragrance – 7 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 8 / 10

Slickness – 10 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 8 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 61 / 70

Availability – https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheCajunBladeStore, thecajunblade@gmail.com (for customization and queries)

Hey, I got told off for "wasting" soap when I mentioned how quickly I'm getting through my Eufros Aura de Lavanda. (I don't waste anything.) Looks to me like you load even heavier than I do...

 

[Bladerunner7]

Hey, I got told off for "wasting" soap when I mentioned how quickly I'm getting through my Eufros Aura de Lavanda. (I don't waste anything.) Looks to me like you load even heavier than I do...

"Guilty as charged Muh Man, guilty as charged." I use it for a shave anyways and then let the lather sit on the knot for a good bit of time before rinsing it off clean, when the Brush dries it smells super awesome.

 

[Vittoria]

THE CAJUN BLADE – “FORÉT DE PINS”​

First Look - “I believe in miracles, Where you from, you sexy thing?,” that opening line from the Hot Chocolate hit featured in ‘The Full Monty,’ that’s what I’m reminded of when I look at the soap tub’s cover. A second glance at the whole picture reveals more with the soap’s title, “Forét De Pins” in Cajun French which simply translates to 'Forest of the Pines.' The Pine forest in the background is what this soap’s fragrance is all about. This is a well thought of illustration that would appeal to every lad that I know and it makes for an edgy yet unique cover.

Side note – Eric Hebert, the artisan behind the Cajun Blade shaving soaps is a die hard straight razor shaver and his line of soaps was originally created for that purpose mainly for personal use. The desire to share his product with other shavers led him to starting a small home made line of soaps. Every hot processed soap is crafted in small batches by hand using the best available and natural ingredients. The artisan himself is proudly Cajun. The Cajuns are an ethnic group in South Louisiana, USA that are known for their Cajun French language, culture, music, and awesome food.

First Whiff – “Forét De Pins” was meant to be a homage to the coastal pine forests of the South in the USA where Eric being an outdoors man spends a lot of his time. The aroma of the spring time with the pines in bloom during Turkey season is what the fragrance profile of the soap is described as. At first whiff, I get a fairly strong pine sap note, a second whiff and the woodsy undertones come through with a hint of fresh leaves on forest trees and fresh pine needles. This isn’t an overwhelming or sharp pine fragrance but one that is fresh and extremely pleasant. A strong inhalation of this soap’s fragrance with closed eyes is good enough to transport you to the midst of a pine forest. I am not a fan of Pine scents in shaving soaps which are often too medicinal, woody or strong for my nose but this one appeals to me big time.

First Lather – “Forét De Pins” contains Beef Tallow, Cocoa Butter, Kokum Butter, Stearic Acid, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Vegetable glycerin, Honey, African Black Soap, NAOH, KOH, H2O, Fragrance and Essential oils. The TCB2” beef tallow base is a tallow rich soap and I was excited to try it out. I bloomed a tea spoon of the soap with two table spoons of warm water for 5 minutes in my Hendrix Classics & Co Stainless Steel lather bowl. Using my Yaqi Evil Zebra Synthetic I started working up a lather and after sixty seconds of brush rotations, I had a fairly dense result. Adding two more table spoons of water I proceeded with ninety seconds of swirling the brush clockwise and anticlockwise. I was surprised at how rich and dense the lather turned out. The closest comparison to this would be a really thick hair mousse but a lot denser.

First Performance – I was so impressed by the lather quality and even more when I painted the first few strokes of it on my cheeks. That mid strength fresh pine fragrance started bursting forth on my face and it was very refreshing, I could even detect a slight citrusy note in there now. I decided to go with my Stirling Standard aggressive razor and a new Feather blade for this one. I had a two pass BBS result on five days of growth and the soap made the razor feel like a smooth forgiving tool. The cushion and protection was excellent but the stand out quality of this soap was the residual slickness, after all this was initially created for straight razor aficionados. This is one super slick shaving soap. The post shave feel was what intrigued me, I didn’t need any after shave balm or splash as my skin felt well moisturized. The addition of African Black soap plays a big role here. The Iconic African black with the ash of roasted plantain skins or cocoa pods is highly regarded for its natural exfoliating and antibacterial properties, which can help prevent razor bumps and irritation while fighting off yeast and fungal infections.

First Opinion – “Forét De Pins” like other Cajun Blade shaving soaps often flies under the radar due to a lack of strong advertising and social media presence but for me this soap is top shelf in performance. The 3.5 ounce pour may not wow you with it’s fragrance strength but the ability to capture the scent notes true to the original source while conveying the actual theme of the soap perfectly is a winner

great review and info @

THE CAJUN BLADE – “FORÉT DE PINS”​

First Look - “I believe in miracles, Where you from, you sexy thing?,” that opening line from the Hot Chocolate hit featured in ‘The Full Monty,’ that’s what I’m reminded of when I look at the soap tub’s cover. A second glance at the whole picture reveals more with the soap’s title, “Forét De Pins” in Cajun French which simply translates to 'Forest of the Pines.' The Pine forest in the background is what this soap’s fragrance is all about. This is a well thought of illustration that would appeal to every lad that I know and it makes for an edgy yet unique cover.

Side note – Eric Hebert, the artisan behind the Cajun Blade shaving soaps is a die hard straight razor shaver and his line of soaps was originally created for that purpose mainly for personal use. The desire to share his product with other shavers led him to starting a small home made line of soaps. Every hot processed soap is crafted in small batches by hand using the best available and natural ingredients. The artisan himself is proudly Cajun. The Cajuns are an ethnic group in South Louisiana, USA that are known for their Cajun French language, culture, music, and awesome food.

First Whiff – “Forét De Pins” was meant to be a homage to the coastal pine forests of the South in the USA where Eric being an outdoors man spends a lot of his time. The aroma of the spring time with the pines in bloom during Turkey season is what the fragrance profile of the soap is described as. At first whiff, I get a fairly strong pine sap note, a second whiff and the woodsy undertones come through with a hint of fresh leaves on forest trees and fresh pine needles. This isn’t an overwhelming or sharp pine fragrance but one that is fresh and extremely pleasant. A strong inhalation of this soap’s fragrance with closed eyes is good enough to transport you to the midst of a pine forest. I am not a fan of Pine scents in shaving soaps which are often too medicinal, woody or strong for my nose but this one appeals to me big time.

First Lather – “Forét De Pins” contains Beef Tallow, Cocoa Butter, Kokum Butter, Stearic Acid, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Vegetable glycerin, Honey, African Black Soap, NAOH, KOH, H2O, Fragrance and Essential oils. The TCB2” beef tallow base is a tallow rich soap and I was excited to try it out. I bloomed a tea spoon of the soap with two table spoons of warm water for 5 minutes in my Hendrix Classics & Co Stainless Steel lather bowl. Using my Yaqi Evil Zebra Synthetic I started working up a lather and after sixty seconds of brush rotations, I had a fairly dense result. Adding two more table spoons of water I proceeded with ninety seconds of swirling the brush clockwise and anticlockwise. I was surprised at how rich and dense the lather turned out. The closest comparison to this would be a really thick hair mousse but a lot denser.

First Performance – I was so impressed by the lather quality and even more when I painted the first few strokes of it on my cheeks. That mid strength fresh pine fragrance started bursting forth on my face and it was very refreshing, I could even detect a slight citrusy note in there now. I decided to go with my Stirling Standard aggressive razor and a new Feather blade for this one. I had a two pass BBS result on five days of growth and the soap made the razor feel like a smooth forgiving tool. The cushion and protection was excellent but the stand out quality of this soap was the residual slickness, after all this was initially created for straight razor aficionados. This is one super slick shaving soap. The post shave feel was what intrigued me, I didn’t need any after shave balm or splash as my skin felt well moisturized. The addition of African Black soap plays a big role here. The Iconic African black with the ash of roasted plantain skins or cocoa pods is highly regarded for its natural exfoliating and antibacterial properties, which can help prevent razor bumps and irritation while fighting off yeast and fungal infections.

First Opinion – “Forét De Pins” like other Cajun Blade shaving soaps often flies under the radar due to a lack of strong advertising and social media presence but for me this soap is top shelf in performance. The 3.5 ounce pour may not wow you with it’s fragrance strength but the ability to capture the scent notes true to the original source while conveying the actual theme of the soap perfectly is a winner for me. This is a soap created with a lot of passion by the artisan, Highly recommended.

Cover Art Work – 8 / 10

Lather Quality – 10 / 10

Fragrance – 7 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 8 / 10

Slickness – 10 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 8 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 61 / 70

Availability – https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheCajunBladeStore, thecajunblade@gmail.com (for customization and queries)

Fabulous review @Bladerunner7
Not to mention the cover art
I’m unashamed to say it made me think about Jessica Simpson doing the video clip
These boots are made for walking and of course the Dukes of Hazard movie which unfortunately was a bit second-rate compared to the original series of course except for Jessica

 

[Bladerunner7]

SAPONIFICIO VARESINO – 70TH ANNIVERSARY SHAVING SOAP​

First Look - An anthracite-colored aluminum tin with an intricately stamped metallic label in antique brass. The Brand name, soap title and a few other details of the content within stare back at me every time I glance at the cover. There is nothing edgy, flashy or X factor about it. Having said that, this packaging is what makes every Saponifcio Varesino product unique and easily recognizable. Hold the tin in your hand and it feels rugged reminding one of real steel, metal canteens from the days of the wild west and everything macho. I do love the retrospective look of this and will retain this container long after the soap is gone.

Side note – Post World War 2, in the small town of Brebbia in northern Italy, Dante Bardelli a soldier of the Alpine regiment perfected a method of making artisanal soap using the properties of natural ingredients that were readily available to enhance the final product. With his wife’s help, Saponificio Varesino was established in 1945 as a business run from home. The iconic Stella Alpina laundry soap bar was released in 1948, a lavender bath soap in the sixties and over the next few decades the company would emerge as a producer of quality laundry, flaked, Industrial soaps as well as toiletries. Only in July 21, 2014 after a year-long research and development process involving users of the Italian shaving forum ilrasoio.com, did SV release their first shaving soap with the BETA 4.0 base. The descendants of Dante Bardelli still use the Marseilles method of saponification where every soap is handmade with the best non aggressive ingredients void of any mineral oils and parabens. The product is then triple milled, wrapped and labelled by hand just like Dante and his wife would haveve done back in 1945. More on the Marseille method later.

First Whiff – The fragrance notes of limited edition 70th anniversary soap include Bergamot, Lemon, Tangerine and Calone at the top, Lavender, Labdanum, Jasmine and Geranium in the middle with Amber and Vetiver propping up the rest. Many wet shavers believe it to be inspired by Armani’s Aqua Di Gio. At first whiff I get a strong citrus opening with Calone sitting in the background, think of a pleasant blend of citrus floating over a fresh sea breeze and that’s where the similarity with the Armani men’s perfume ends. While Aqua Di Gio has that strong aquatic or marine that blasts through after the opening with a woody undertone present, SV 70th Anniversary dips into a light floral territory with the Geranium and Lavender making their presence felt. While Aqua Di Gio’s Marine note remains one of the three pillars of the fragrance, SV’s limited edition offering needs a second whiff to detect an ozonic presence. This is a soap with a very pleasant masculine fragrance that is slightly above mid strength and can be used the whole year round.

First Lather – Saponificio Varesino use the the Marseilles method of saponification which starts with Mediterranean Sea water, olive oil and plant extracts heated together in a large cauldron and stirred constantly for several days before being poured into a mold and left to set for up to a month. This is then passed through a milling machine three times to thoroughly mix the soap with the fragrances and extra ingredients, while squeezing out any extra water or air which is done to ensure a longer lasting soap and denser lather when used. So, I proceeded to scoop out a teaspoon of the soap which was more like a hardened wax and bloomed it for five minutes in two tablespoons of warm water. Using my damp Semogue Boar brush I worked at the soap for two minutes and the result was a rich and creamy lather which had a firm hold to it. This soap needs minimal water but that blooming step prescribed by the company does produce the best results.

First Performance – I proceeded to lather up and while I was painting the first few strokes, that fresh citrus, light floral and mildly aquatic blend was joined by a few pleasant herbal notes, this is a very unique fragrance. I had a fantastic two pass BBS result using the Atelier Durdan Numero 7 - 1.1 loaded with a Wizamet blade. While the AD razor is a stunning kit that took down five days of growth easily, the soap made it a buttery smooth razor. The residual slickness was really high with this soap and even without an aftershave splash or balm, my skin felt well-nourished and toned even after a few hours. I was left stunned by this soap’s performance. The post shave can be credited to the BETA 4.3 formulation which includes a larch tree extract known to reduce trans-epidermal water loss, making this soap perfect for any wet shaver with dry or normal to dry skin.

First Opinion – I’m a fan of non-tallow soaps that perform well but no other vegan offering has come close to the SV 70th Anniversary limited edition soap for me. The only soap that can rival it to a certain extent in the post shave department would be Officina Artigiana’s 'Oli Del Benessere' but then again SV trumps it with superior slickness, cushion and protection. Even though it may be a bit pricey, with a 5.3 oz pour and a minimal quantity required for each shave, this soap is top value. I’m going to go out on a limb and say that even though the above mid strength fragrance did not blow me away, this is one of the greatest soaps I have ever used.

Cover Art Work – 8 / 10

Lather Quality – 9 / 10

Fragrance – 7 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 10 / 10

Slickness – 10 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 10 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 64 / 70

Availability – https://www.saponificiovaresino.com/svstore/en/, https://www.shavingmarket.com.au , https://www.k5international.com.au, https://www.therazorcompany.com, https://maggardrazors.com, https://blade.net.au and other online shaving gear retailers.

 

[Errol]

SAPONIFICIO VARESINO – 70TH ANNIVERSARY SHAVING SOAP​

First Look - An anthracite-colored aluminum tin with an intricately stamped metallic label in antique brass. The Brand name, soap title and a few other details of the content within stare back at me every time I glance at the cover. There is nothing edgy, flashy or X factor about it. Having said that, this packaging is what makes every Saponifcio Varesino product unique and easily recognizable. Hold the tin in your hand and it feels rugged reminding one of real steel, metal canteens from the days of the wild west and everything macho. I do love the retrospective look of this and will retain this container long after the soap is gone.

Side note – Post World War 2, in the small town of Brebbia in northern Italy, Dante Bardelli a soldier of the Alpine regiment perfected a method of making artisanal soap using the properties of natural ingredients that were readily available to enhance the final product. With his wife’s help, Saponificio Varesino was established in 1945 as a business run from home. The iconic Stella Alpina laundry soap bar was released in 1948, a lavender bath soap in the sixties and over the next few decades the company would emerge as a producer of quality laundry, flaked, Industrial soaps as well as toiletries. Only in July 21, 2014 after a year-long research and development process involving users of the Italian shaving forum ilrasoio.com, did SV release their first shaving soap with the BETA 4.0 base. The descendants of Dante Bardelli still use the Marseilles method of saponification where every soap is handmade with the best non aggressive ingredients void of any mineral oils and parabens. The product is then triple milled, wrapped and labelled by hand just like Dante and his wife would haveve done back in 1945. More on the Marseille method later.

First Whiff – The fragrance notes of limited edition 70th anniversary soap include Bergamot, Lemon, Tangerine and Calone at the top, Lavender, Labdanum, Jasmine and Geranium in the middle with Amber and Vetiver propping up the rest. Many wet shavers believe it to be inspired by Armani’s Aqua Di Gio. At first whiff I get a strong citrus opening with Calone sitting in the background, think of a pleasant blend of citrus floating over a fresh sea breeze and that’s where the similarity with the Armani men’s perfume ends. While Aqua Di Gio has that strong aquatic or marine that blasts through after the opening with a woody undertone present, SV 70th Anniversary dips into a light floral territory with the Geranium and Lavender making their presence felt. While Aqua Di Gio’s Marine note remains one of the three pillars of the fragrance, SV’s limited edition offering needs a second whiff to detect an ozonic presence. This is a soap with a very pleasant masculine fragrance that is slightly above mid strength and can be used the whole year round.

First Lather – Saponificio Varesino use the the Marseilles method of saponification which starts with Mediterranean Sea water, olive oil and plant extracts heated together in a large cauldron and stirred constantly for several days before being poured into a mold and left to set for up to a month. This is then passed through a milling machine three times to thoroughly mix the soap with the fragrances and extra ingredients, while squeezing out any extra water or air which is done to ensure a longer lasting soap and denser lather when used. So, I proceeded to scoop out a teaspoon of the soap which was more like a hardened wax and bloomed it for five minutes in two tablespoons of warm water. Using my damp Semogue Boar brush I worked at the soap for two minutes and the result was a rich and creamy lather which had a firm hold to it. This soap needs minimal water but that blooming step prescribed by the company does produce the best results.

First Performance – I proceeded to lather up and while I was painting the first few strokes, that fresh citrus, light floral and mildly aquatic blend was joined by a few pleasant herbal notes, this is a very unique fragrance. I had a fantastic two pass BBS result using the Atelier Durdan Numero 7 - 1.1 loaded with a Wizamet blade. While the AD razor is a stunning kit that took down five days of growth easily, the soap made it a buttery smooth razor. The residual slickness was really high with this soap and even without an aftershave splash or balm, my skin felt well-nourished and toned even after a few hours. I was left stunned by this soap’s performance. The post shave can be credited to the BETA 4.3 formulation which includes a larch tree extract known to reduce trans-epidermal water loss, making this soap perfect for any wet shaver with dry or normal to dry skin.

First Opinion – I’m a fan of non-tallow soaps that perform well but no other vegan offering has come close to the SV 70th Anniversary limited edition soap for me. The only soap that can rival it to a certain extent in the post shave department would be Officina Artigiana’s 'Oli Del Benessere' but then again SV trumps it with superior slickness, cushion and protection. Even though it may be a bit pricey, with a 5.3 oz pour and a minimal quantity required for each shave, this soap is top value. I’m going to go out on a limb and say that even though the above mid strength fragrance did not blow me away, this is one of the greatest soaps I have ever used.

Cover Art Work – 8 / 10

Lather Quality – 9 / 10

Fragrance – 7 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 10 / 10

Slickness – 10 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 10 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 64 / 70

Availability – https://www.saponificiovaresino.com/svstore/en/, https://www.shavingmarket.com.au , https://www.k5international.com.au, https://www.therazorcompany.com, https://maggardrazors.com, https://blade.net.au and other online shaving gear retailers.

Wow. At last, a soap I have used. I have a poor sense of smell but it provided a great lather.

 

[Bladerunner7]

Wow. At last, a soap I have used. I have a poor sense of smell but it provided a great lather.

It is a terrific soap mate, love most of the SV releases including the 80th Anniversary but this one is still special. I haven't forgotten that you introduced me to Extro Cosmesi, love their soaps as well.

 

[Bladerunner7]

DENTON MAGIK – FRAICHE EAU MEL​

First Look - A simple image of half a perfume bottle, the shaving soap’s title and a splash of waves or water on the sides . The job of conveying the product as being one that leans towards an aquatic fragrance is definitely achieved by the artisan soap maker but I would have loved the artwork on the cover to be more catchy than it is. The saving grace is the actual presentation of the soap in a 2.5 oz glass jar which is reminiscent of the old Iodex or ointment bottles most of us would have seen as kids in the family medicine cabinet. I do like this little jar concept more than the cover.

Side note – Denton Magik was launched in 2021 by Mark Denton, a wet shaving enthusiast known across many shaving forums. His aim was to create artisan shaving soaps with the best ingredients available so that every wet shaver could buy a top shelf product at an affordable price.

First Whiff – One look at the cover of the glass jar with the soap’s title is enough to connect the dots, Fraice Eau Mel is a homage to 'Versace Eau Fraiche.' The fragrance profile is described as a woody aquatic and fresh blend with Bergamot, Carambola (Star Fruit) and Brazilian Rosewood at the top, Cedar, Pepper, Sage and Tarragon in the middle followed by Amber, Musk saffron and Sycamore at the base. At first whiff The Bergamot and Starfruit make their presence felt with the Brazilian Rosewood humbly staying in the background. I failed to pick up any traces of Cedar or Sage but a hint of Pepper and Tarragon came through before the Amber, Musk, Saffron and Sycamore took over. Sycamore tens to have a gentle and sweet woody character unlike the Brazilian rosewood which can be a bit more intense. To be honest, this soap is a bang on dupe of Versace Eau Fraiche but a tad bit lighter in projection than the original.

First Lather – 'Fraiche Eau Mel" features the game changer base (not connected to the RR razor in any way) and the list of ingredients is impressive with Aqua, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Castor Oil, Shea Butter, Cocoa Seed Butter, Illipe Seed Butter, Beef Tallow, Cupuacu Butter, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Kokum Seed Butter, Mango Seed Butter, Coconut Milk, Goats Milk, Tussah Silk Proteins, Sodium Lactate, Greek Yogurt, Vegetable Glycerine, Citric Acid, Essential and Fragrance Oils. There was no doubt that I was in for a rich lather with beef tallow and so many butters in there. Instructions with this soap suggest building a lather in the bowl and that's totally up my alley. I bloomed a teaspoon of the soap in two table spoons of warm water before I started working at it using my humble Omega brush and HC & Co lather bowl. A minute later I had a nice pasty product. Two tablespoons of water followed with ninety seconds of brush swirling before I had a nice luxurious lather akin to a low fat beaten up yoghurt. This soap was extremely easy to work with and required minimal water.

First Performance – While painting the first few strokes of lather on my face I realized that the fragrance strength had weakened and after the first application, I was sure that those woody notes had taken a back seat with the citrus and aquatic notes still hovering around. I had a two pass BBS with my Aylsworth Apex SS razor and a Perma-Sharp blade. The shave was smooth as ever with the soap providing very good cushion and protection. The post residual slickness was good enough to buff over troubled spots but with the Apex there was no stubble left to clear up. The post shave feel was above average with my skin feeling fairly supple and refreshed a few hours later. Once in a while I do let the remaining lather stay on my brush to observe how long it takes for it to dissipate or drip down. I forgot about the brush and when I spotted it six hours later, the lather had maintained its form and consistency as I had left it, that beef tallow and the quantity of butters in the soap can be credited for this.

First Opinion – Denton Magik soaps with their simple packaging and humble appearance often fly under the radar as just another shaving soap. I was disappointed that Fraiche Eau Mel’s fragrance weakened when I lathered up but off the puck it was divine and when coupled with the aftershave, it offers a Versace Eau Fraiche experience for sure. Fragrance aside, the soap’s performance was excellent and it is a brand that every wet shaver should try out at least once.

Cover Art Work – 5 / 10

Lather Quality – 8 / 10

Fragrance – 6 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 8 / 10

Slickness – 8 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 8 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 53 / 70

Availability – Sold out everywhere