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Protective Oil

Shane

Shane

Member
With a new SR comes new responsibility, one being to oil and care for the blade against corrosion.

Therefore, I've heard a couple of mixed opinions with regards to the best options available for blade care oils, with mineral oil, camellia oil, clipper oil and even food grade oils such as olive oil being thrown about as options.

Is minerial oil really the best option out there? If so, I came across this IKEA white mineral oil for wood treatment. Would this fit the bill?

http://m.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/art/00170993/

Also, I find it hard to believe that a SR manufacturer out there hasn't cornered the blade oil market. Are there other options that I'm missing.

Looking forward to hearing feedback and thoughts.
 
cooking oils would go rancid. Use anything else. Just remember to strop the blade before oiling. (Just so it dries completely)
 
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Marks recommendation is (taken from another thread); clipper oil, mineral oil or machine oil, camellia oil or even INOX. I've tried a few different things but have settled on INOX. It's light, non greasy, easy to apply and easy to remove, does not gum up or go off. I have a tiny can under the basin and I just apply a tiny squirt to one side and the pivot. Then run around with my finger which transfers the excess to the other side. If it bothers you, you can also get food grade INOX but i've not bothered since I wipe it off and strop before it gets to my face.
 
@Sxot I do the exact same thing. :)
 
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Unscented baby oil. It is pure mineral oil, if it is good enough for a baby it will be fine for you. Also start honing on Arkansas hones or a Coticule with baby oil and you'll kill two birds with one inexpensive "solution", naturally, or unnaturally don't use oil on synthetic hones.
 
Shane said:
I've heard that camellia oil can sometimes leave a sticky residue if left on the blade for an extended period of time. Have you ever had a similar experience?
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I have never experienced any stickiness on my blades with camellia oil. As I've posted previously, pure mineral oil also works great, as mentioned in this thread. As @bald as notes, unscented Baby Oil is an easily found source. You can also find pure mineral oil in chemists - it is branded as Liquid Paraffin, and is inexpensive.
Key to success is applying an even but very thin coating of oil.
 
If you really want to get fancy, Straight Razor Designs have this pot of oil with a felt tip. Wipe the tip on the blade and you have the perfect, no mess, no waste solution.
 
I've had a 200ml tin of ren wax for 3 years and still got about a quarter left a little goes a long way, and have used it on every str8, DE and knife that has come through my hands at some stage, as it can be used on any natural or synthetic scales and steels as it is a museum grade protectant
but I do prefer the smell of the camellia oil
 
Substance said:
I've had a 200ml tin of ren wax for 3 years and still got about a quarter left a little goes a long way, and have used it on every str8, DE and knife that has come through my hands at some stage, as it can be used on any natural or synthetic scales and steels as it is a museum grade protectant
but I do prefer the smell of the camellia oil
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Spot on, Mate.
 
@Substance are you talking about Renaissance Wax
Renaissance%20wax.jpg
 
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