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Weekly Razor Review

Lambda Ares V2 Stainless Steel OC (Greece)



Not content with just producing their Arena in stainless steel, Lambda have also release the Ares V2 in stainless steel; I put my name down for one of them also. Today’s review features the stainless steel Lambda Ares V2. As always, the Lambda razor presentation case deserves a special mention. It is a two piece wooden construction with felt lined cutouts for the razor, the lid snaps shut and is clamped by magnets and finished in a matt grey. I know we don’t shave with the presentation case, but all Lambda cases are outstanding. A feature of the head is the huge teeth of the comb, 10 of them to be precise. These teeth angle backwards from the line of the plate so much so that they reduce the effective length of the handle by a few mm. Other than the two large flats at the very edge of the cap, it is a standard looking cap. As with all Ares razors, the handle is modelled on the marble columns of ancient Greece; this translates to a series of longitudinal grooves along the length of the handle. There has never been a grip problem with any Ares handle, and I expect that will again be the case here. Lambda are one of the very few companies that polish the underside of their cap thus delivering the stainless steel Ares V2 as one very specially finished razor and to complete the presentation, Lambda’s trademark (λ) adorns the end of the plate.

Those curled, wide teeth certainly feel very pleasant against the skin as they glide over it. Efficiency wise, the Ares V2 sits at Karve CB level #D, a small increment down on what I achieved with the bronze version. I even think that the amount of positive blade was also a little less so while I gave the bronze Ares V2 top billing, I do like the stainless steel version even more. With its smooth, comfortable action and that gentle caress of the comb over the face, this is one of those razors that I would keep reaching for. It is just so soothing.

Blades Used – Gillette Platinum and Gillette Minora

Material – 316L Stainless Steel

Weight – 103.3g

Blade Tab – Exposed

Head Width – 41.96mm

Handle Length – 95.00mm

Handle Diameter – 11.49mm

Availability – Lambda Razors

Final Word – Superb
 
Lambda Ares V2 Stainless Steel OC (Greece)



Not content with just producing their Arena in stainless steel, Lambda have also release the Ares V2 in stainless steel; I put my name down for one of them also. Today’s review features the stainless steel Lambda Ares V2. As always, the Lambda razor presentation case deserves a special mention. It is a two piece wooden construction with felt lined cutouts for the razor, the lid snaps shut and is clamped by magnets and finished in a matt grey. I know we don’t shave with the presentation case, but all Lambda cases are outstanding. A feature of the head is the huge teeth of the comb, 10 of them to be precise. These teeth angle backwards from the line of the plate so much so that they reduce the effective length of the handle by a few mm. Other than the two large flats at the very edge of the cap, it is a standard looking cap. As with all Ares razors, the handle is modelled on the marble columns of ancient Greece; this translates to a series of longitudinal grooves along the length of the handle. There has never been a grip problem with any Ares handle, and I expect that will again be the case here. Lambda are one of the very few companies that polish the underside of their cap thus delivering the stainless steel Ares V2 as one very specially finished razor and to complete the presentation, Lambda’s trademark (λ) adorns the end of the plate.

Those curled, wide teeth certainly feel very pleasant against the skin as they glide over it. Efficiency wise, the Ares V2 sits at Karve CB level #D, a small increment down on what I achieved with the bronze version. I even think that the amount of positive blade was also a little less so while I gave the bronze Ares V2 top billing, I do like the stainless steel version even more. With its smooth, comfortable action and that gentle caress of the comb over the face, this is one of those razors that I would keep reaching for. It is just so soothing.

Blades Used – Gillette Platinum and Gillette Minora

Material – 316L Stainless Steel

Weight – 103.3g

Blade Tab – Exposed

Head Width – 41.96mm

Handle Length – 95.00mm

Handle Diameter – 11.49mm

Availability – Lambda Razors

Final Word – Superb
@Errol, Lambda rulz 🤔
 
Rocnel Model DE 304 (Turkey)



Standing out like the proverbial brick outhouse is the completely flat back to the plate, no machining whatsoever, there is no engraving, no lather clearing channels, no relief, nothing. It takes time to accept that a plate can be made so simply, a couple of reliefs on the top of the plate for blade clearance, a couple of chamfers, a blind holes for the blade posts and I’d better not neglect to mention the hole for the handle post, that’s it. Rocnel have picked up the outer protrusions in the blade cut out for positioning the blade posts, thus the blade posts are a lot smaller diameter and set lower than those normally seen. The 304’s cap is a bit more conventional, light weight with large, but wasted flats for blade clamping, I say wasted because they overlap the narrow chamfer on the plate by quite a large margin. A simple but functional handle completes the build. While the finish is presentable, there has been no attempt at improving what was dropped from the CNC machine. Unlike some companies with El Cheapo razors where costs are reduced by machining their caps from flat stock and end up with shave angle dictating heads, Rocnel have supplied a cap with a circular aspect.

Designers spend a lot of time, effort and money in coming up with ways to clear lather to allow the blade to perform at its full potential. After sampling the DE 304 where no attempt at all has been made to clear lather through the plate, I’m starting to wonder why. If I’d not seen for myself that there was no lather channel in the plate of the DE 304, I would not have guessed while it was being used. Under the fitted blade there is a relatively large cavity and I’m thinking that it is there to gather and disperse the lather, the system works. Rocnel razors have traditionally been overweight and mild shavers, and the DE 304 very much follows this patten. This is a budget razor so the chances of Rocnel doing anything to reduce its weight are slim. Efficiency was above Karve CB Level #A and the blade protrusion was neutral, defiantly not my cup of tea. It’s not enjoyable when you have to continually keep scraping over an area to get something like a half decent shave, then you end up with razor burn and feel like you need another shave a few hours later. Fitting a Feather blade did not improve the shave much. Time to stick a bomb up its bum, so out with the shim. If I was expecting real improvement in efficiency, I never got it. Sure there was a small increase in performance but not enough to go anywhere near satisfying my requirement for a quality shave. Every time I undone the handle to rinse out, the cap, plate and blade part would company and want to play propellers; the blade locating pins are set low, so as soon as the handle is unscrewed a little, they disengage and free everything up. It’s a simple chore to undo the handle and reassemble everything, but it’s a pain. There is nothing to write home about when describing the razor; it is one razor I could take or leave, so I’m leaving it.

Blades Used – Glatz and Feather

Material – 304 Stainless Steel

Weight – 131.9g

Blade Tab – Exposed

Head Width – 41.41mm

Handle Length – 90.07mm

Handle Diameter – 13.98mm

Availability – Rocnel

Final Word – It’s a dud
 
Rocnel Model DE 304 (Turkey)



Standing out like the proverbial brick outhouse is the completely flat back to the plate, no machining whatsoever, there is no engraving, no lather clearing channels, no relief, nothing. It takes time to accept that a plate can be made so simply, a couple of reliefs on the top of the plate for blade clearance, a couple of chamfers, a blind holes for the blade posts and I’d better not neglect to mention the hole for the handle post, that’s it. Rocnel have picked up the outer protrusions in the blade cut out for positioning the blade posts, thus the blade posts are a lot smaller diameter and set lower than those normally seen. The 304’s cap is a bit more conventional, light weight with large, but wasted flats for blade clamping, I say wasted because they overlap the narrow chamfer on the plate by quite a large margin. A simple but functional handle completes the build. While the finish is presentable, there has been no attempt at improving what was dropped from the CNC machine. Unlike some companies with El Cheapo razors where costs are reduced by machining their caps from flat stock and end up with shave angle dictating heads, Rocnel have supplied a cap with a circular aspect.

Designers spend a lot of time, effort and money in coming up with ways to clear lather to allow the blade to perform at its full potential. After sampling the DE 304 where no attempt at all has been made to clear lather through the plate, I’m starting to wonder why. If I’d not seen for myself that there was no lather channel in the plate of the DE 304, I would not have guessed while it was being used. Under the fitted blade there is a relatively large cavity and I’m thinking that it is there to gather and disperse the lather, the system works. Rocnel razors have traditionally been overweight and mild shavers, and the DE 304 very much follows this patten. This is a budget razor so the chances of Rocnel doing anything to reduce its weight are slim. Efficiency was above Karve CB Level #A and the blade protrusion was neutral, defiantly not my cup of tea. It’s not enjoyable when you have to continually keep scraping over an area to get something like a half decent shave, then you end up with razor burn and feel like you need another shave a few hours later. Fitting a Feather blade did not improve the shave much. Time to stick a bomb up its bum, so out with the shim. If I was expecting real improvement in efficiency, I never got it. Sure there was a small increase in performance but not enough to go anywhere near satisfying my requirement for a quality shave. Every time I undone the handle to rinse out, the cap, plate and blade part would company and want to play propellers; the blade locating pins are set low, so as soon as the handle is unscrewed a little, they disengage and free everything up. It’s a simple chore to undo the handle and reassemble everything, but it’s a pain. There is nothing to write home about when describing the razor; it is one razor I could take or leave, so I’m leaving it.

Blades Used – Glatz and Feather

Material – 304 Stainless Steel

Weight – 131.9g

Blade Tab – Exposed

Head Width – 41.41mm

Handle Length – 90.07mm

Handle Diameter – 13.98mm

Availability – Rocnel

Final Word – It’s a dud
Bummer....... Wasting money on a dud.

Have a drink @Errol
one-drink-drinking.gif
 
@Errol, Excellent and detailed review as always. The underneath of the base plate reminds me of the Muhle Rocca. The lather clearance was okay with the Rocca while holding the head sideways under a running tap. Theo made it much smoother and easier with his Athena design. I would have thought that Rocnel would have done something even better or cooler.
 
@Errol, Excellent and detailed review as always. The underneath of the base plate reminds me of the Muhle Rocca. The lather clearance was okay with the Rocca while holding the head sideways under a running tap. Theo made it much smoother and easier with his Athena design. I would have thought that Rocnel would have done something even better or cooler.
The worst I've found is the Timeless 0.95 where the lather channel is particularly difficult to clean. Fortunately my rainwater doesn't leave much (if any) crud on my razors, but I had to resort to one of those skinny bottle-brushes made for cleaning stainless drinking straws to clean out the .95 when it came from the previous owner. The shave was worth it, though. 👍
 
The worst I've found is the Timeless 0.95 where the lather channel is particularly difficult to clean. Fortunately my rainwater doesn't leave much (if any) crud on my razors, but I had to resort to one of those skinny bottle-brushes made for cleaning stainless drinking straws to clean out the .95 when it came from the previous owner. The shave was worth it, though. 👍
That's why I don't recommend the Timeless razor, because, of the lather channel build up inside along the safety bar is particularly difficult and a real pain in the ass to clean.
 
Ikon SBS Brass – UFO Handle (Thailand)



I’d not heard of Ikon machining any razors from brass so when a brass Ikon SBS (head only) presented itself for sale I decided that it would make a great addition to the collection. What handle should I purchase to match? A bit of biffo in the Ukraine has put a stop to what was a reliable supply of quality handles, none of the Chinese handles matched what I was looking for and most of the other handles could best be described as looking very average, and very few were brass. I hadn’t given up but was having difficulty finding a suitable brass handle when I received a message that there was a brass Ikon SBS for sale with a bronze UFO handle; that aroused my attention. My source advises that there were only 85 brass SBS’s ever made and that the handle is one of only five Red Kong UFO bronze handles made. I have other UFO handles but have never used a UFO handle, that situation is about to change.

Under normal circumstances I would hammer Ikon for the weight of the head, but not this time. When the SBS was made, heavy weight razors were all the rage, the heavier the better, so if you want to use this razor you’d better be prepared for its weight. And if you choose to use a UFO handle, you’d better be prepared for some additional weight there too; they were all made to generous proportions, this handle alone weighs in at 113.5g; all up the weight of this setup is 175.1g. I am not an advocate for dual efficiency plates; the Ikon SBS has one, open comb and safety bar but if the plate is flipped over there are two further levels of efficiency, four levels of efficiency in one razor. On its own, the plate is over 7mm thick and weighs in at 45.5g but one thing I like, it’s there engraved on the plate ‘SBS’: no confusion or mixing it up with the earlier S3S heads or similar looking heads Ikon machined up. In contrast the cap feels light weight even with its covered ends. With top quality products, one thing that can be relied on is perfection when it comes to thread engagement; two different manufacturers, two different countries, two different metals and the thread engagement between the head and handle is superb. Even though a bit of tarnish has set in, the red of the bronze in the handle still shows through and I will not be polishing it, that would only detract from its value. UFO were well known for the quality and beauty in the machining of their handles and even today that is still the case, so simple yet so complicated. How I wish there was a machinist today willing to set up and produce handles to the quality of the UFO.

There is no doubt that this combination of handle and razor is heavy, but in use it felt so well balanced that it made you overlook the weight factor. That UFO handle certainly played its part in adding to the weight, but it felt so special to at last be using one, it certainly provided positive grip. As mentioned SBS is engraved on one side of the plate and on the other is engraved IKON; the outward facing side of the plate with the visible engraving will be used as the reference along with the edge in use whether it be SB or OC.
  • SBS SB – One combination had to be the first to be used and this happened to be it. Comfortable and silky smooth at just under Karve CB Level #C efficiency with an ever so slight amount of positive blade protrusion. It certainly enhanced my enthusiasm to explore the remaining offerings.
  • SBS OC – This combination raised the efficiency bar to over Karve CB Level #D and increased the blade feel to where I would not want any more. This is enough positive blade for me and the teeth of the comb could barely be detected. A word of warning though, care must be taken when using this combination, it can bite.
  • IKON SB – While there was room to move between the extremes of the SBS side, I was still not sure what to expect. It turned out that efficiency for the IKON SB side was at Karve CB level #D or just under, and that there was a pleasant amount of positive blade. This combination delivered a smooth and comfortable shave, right at my sweet spot.
  • IKON OC – Compared to the SBS OC, there was an efficiency level reduction to above Karve CB Level #D and the amount of positive blade feel also reduced to a level where it could certainly be felt but it was not overpowering.
It was interesting watching the patina gradually disappearing, and the cap taking on a shine near its edge as I progressed through the review. This razor is not for anyone who enjoys their shave to be on the mild side, even with four combinations to choose from, not one could be classed as mild. If however, a more efficient razor with positive blade feel is appreciated this razor has those bases covered. Even with my dislike of dual efficiency razors, I appreciated the shave from the Ikon SBS and look forward now to sampling more examples from the earlier Ikon range.

Blade Used – Gillette Minora

Material – Brass head – bronze handle

Weight – 175.1g

Blade Tab – Enclosed

Head Width – 47.58mm

Handle Length – 85.41mm

Handle Diameter – 15.08mm

Availability – Out of production, both head and handle

Final Word – A privilege
 
Atelier Durdan Numéro 7 Ti – 0.9mm Gap (France)



This Atelier Durdan Numéro 7 Ti – 0.9mm gapped razor has a lot to live up to, its bronze counterpart with the 1.1mm gap was my Razor of the Year for 2024. If suppliers of razors want to offer Black Friday discounts on their stock, who am I to argue; yes, that is when this razor was ordered, and it was in the post within 2 months, so I thought that was pretty good. I’ve stated previously that the quality of the Atelier Durdan machine finish is second to none so it will be no surprise to most when this Numéro 7 Ti was ordered with the machined finish, I was not disappointed. There is a wide flat on the top of the cap and a deep recess on its under-side but there is a wide clamp area for the blade. There is not a lot of depth to either the cap or the plate thus making the head extremely light. To complete the razor a matching No 7 handle was ordered so I expect no issues with any part of this build.

Unlike their US counterparts, Atelier Durdan are not backward in letting you know the specifications of their razors. Gap 0.9mm – blade exposure + 0.7mm. Numéro 7 Ti’s efficiency was between Karve CB Level #C and #D and its pleasant positive blade feel provided a super comfortable shave. I enjoyed being able to shave without concern and think you would have to do something positively stupid to inflict injury on yourself. I’m a titanium fanatic through and through, but this head where every possible bit of metal has been either designed out, or machined out requires more weight, even if just for balance; I’m thinking a stainless steel head with a titanium handle. While I was very impressed with the performance of the 0.9mm gapped Numéro 7 Ti, I preferred the bronze 1.1mm version; the weight of that razor with its extra efficiency made it that much more special.

Blades Used – Rapira Platinum Lux and Glatz

Material – Gr5 Titanium

Weight – 55.7g

Blade Tab – Covered

Head Width – 42.68mm

Handle Length – 89.63mm

Handle Diameter – 12.03mm

Availability – Atelier Durdan

Final Word – AD you’ve done it again
 
@Errol, excellent review and I have to agree with you that the 1.1 edges out the 0.9 with its shave delivery. The 0.9 works nicely for a daily shave though. Most Atelier razors seem to work better with the heavier metals, at east for me. The Le Faulx is sublime in copper and I preferred the Le Maurice SS to the Ti version. For me the Numero 7 SS 1.1 is just perfect.
 
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