• Domain Change - We have moved to https://paste-and-cut.com as our new domain.

    If you are using shortcuts or bookmarks for the old paste-and-cut.com.au domain, you need to update these or they will cease working from the 25th January, 2025. Please check the notice post for more details on this change to the forum.

Weekly Razor Review

Errol said:
The Razor Company Vanguard – Plus (USA)



The Razor Company has good reason to be well proud of their Vanguard razor. As I unpack the razor I’m surprised at the quality of the polished finish; then I disassemble the head, and low and behold, the underside of the cap is polished. Sure, there are machine marks visible through the polish, but the light must be in the right direction for these machine marks to stand out. Instead of round blade posts TRC has machined diamond shaped blade posts that mate into corresponding cut outs in the plate. Engraved on the underside of the plate is the company name and on one end of the plate – PLUS, how simple is that? There is a definite Gillette influence in the style of the handle, longitudinal grooves and fine knurling. Then to rub salt into the big names razor company’s wounds, TRC have drilled out the handle and given us a fully stainless steel razor weighing in under 90g.

Until I used the Vanguard, I’d been thinking that manufacturers who had released new razors in 2025 existed only to line their pockets and showed very little interest in satisfying their customers requirement to get a decent shave for their dollar. Thank you TRC, your Vanguard is a great razor, it is not overly expensive and delivered a Karve CB Level #D efficient shave with a robust but usable amount of positive blade. Sure, I opened up the point of my chin that bleed on and off all day with my first stroke, but most of that was put down to the operator’s poor technique, just don’t let your guard down, this razor has the potential to bite. After developing a healthy respect for the Vanguard’s ability, I enjoyed smooth and comfortable shaves for the remainder of the review. TRC’s Vanguard is a razor that will suit many shavers’ requirement for a mid-efficiency razor, it is readily available without mortgaging the house to obtain one.

Blades Used – Gillette Nacet and Willy’s

Material – 316L Stainless Steel

Weight – 88.5g

Blade Tab - Covered

Head Width – 43.51mm

Handle Length – 89.25mm

Handle Diameter – 11.55mm

Availability – The Razor Company

Final Word – My kind of razor
Click to expand...
@Errol , loved the review. Definitely one of the best purchases this year for me and a terrific shaver. It does remind me a lot of the shave delivery by the Greencult 1.0 but a hell of a lot smoother. Am waiting for the Ti version to be released.
 
Errol said:
Alpha Guido (Hong Kong)



Alpha’s Guido was designed in conjunction with John Venturino, the wet shaving expert behind Stubble Meets Steel; time to look at what they have come up with. I don’t know whether to give Alpha Shaving, John Venturino or maybe both the big pat on the back for coming up with such a spectacular razor. And just to make the deal that little sweeter, both OC and SB plates along with a razor stand were included in the package. This week I’ll be concentrating on the SB plate. It’s a sure winner on the appearance side, I hope it shaves just as good as it looks. Love the handle, there is a definite Gillette influence along with a lot of UFO know how thrown in and the 10 x 53mm hole in its end certainly removed a lot of unnecessary weight, plus it contributed to the razor’s good balance. Round blade posts, quality thread engagement, extra wide blade clamping surfaces and good old fashioned engraving all contribute to make this one visually impressive tool. One not so positive aspect was the ‘water’ marks on the cap, both on the top and underside. They would not rub off, so out with the metal polish to remove them. Easy enough to rectify but it should not happen, Steve would surely know that I would comment on such a flaw to the finish. With the razor now sparkling, it was treated to a coating of Renaissance Wax. Because of the intricate machining of the handle, I don’t know that it got full coverage but if the quantity of Renaissance Wax means anything, it is going to be well protected. Alpha made a big deal about their generosity in providing one only, Filoso blade with their Guido. Should I use it or find something else, I’ll leave it in the packaging and grab a Gillette Minora, I know how good they are.

Before I had even received the Guido, Steve had emailed me offering a Plus plate. I didn’t take up the offer, but Steve, if you have one sitting on the desk gathering dust! I may never use it, but then again, I might, it would be great to have all options available. Efficiency of the standard plated Guido was only slightly above Karve CB level #C, but its well-proportioned positive blade ensured a smooth and comfortable shave. Its ability to easily wipe away whiskers made me feel confident in the razor’s ability. Maybe a little more efficiency would have been appreciated, and I should have purchased that Plus plate; I didn’t, but this is still a brilliant razor. If it takes a collaboration between a razor manufacturer and an expert wet shaver to deliver such a well performing razor then I’m all for it, bring them on.

Blades Used – Gillette Minora and Feather

Material – C20 Brass

Weight – 101.9g

Blade Tab - Covered

Head Width – 43.34mm

Handle Length – 85.98mm

Diameter – 12.99mm

Availability – Alpha Shaving

Final Word – More please
Click to expand...
@Errol, Superb review and a successful collaboration between Steve and John. I will be on board when the more efficient plate is released in SS.
 
Alpha Guido Copper OC (Hong Kong)



Steve – Alpha Shaving Works “I recently did an analysis of my sales data since the company was formed and extracted my top 10 customers. You made this list by a country mile!!” He then went on to advise that a limited run of quantity ten copper Guido razors would be made and offered to his top ten customers, would I like one? Will a Mustang win Bathurst this year? You’d better believe it! of course I bloody well want one. Other than the change of metal, there is no visual difference between the brass and the copper versions. I was hoping that Alpha would see fit to serial number their limited edition copper Guido but that did not happen. Just as with the brass version, there are round blade posts, wide blade clamping flats, quality finish and that gorgeous interpretation of a Gillette/ UFO handle. With copper being a heavier metal than brass, there was a corresponding weight increase of roughly 10g over the brass version. Again, the Renaissance Wax was utilized to maintain that deep copper lustre this Guido exhibited. As a special edition, the copper Guido came in a presentation box whereas for the brass version, it had to be purchased separately. Time now to roll out the copper Guido with the OC plate installed.

Remembering that the brass Guido was supplied with a Filoso blade, what better blade to commence this review with. Efficiency of the open combed, copper Guido was marginally up on the SB version tested last week to slightly under Karve CB Level #D efficiency. There was a proportional increase in blade feel making the open comb Guido closer to the mark as my ideal razor. Having been polishing to a quality standard, the teeth were both smooth and well rounded; while they could be felt, they were not unpleasant and there was no irritation of the face. The open combed Alpha Guido is a quality performer that will make many friends. I’m now looking forward to the stainless steel Guido, especially if the more efficient plate is made available.

Blades Used – Filoso and Gillette 7 O’Clock Black

Material – C110 Copper

Weight – 111.3g

Blade Tab - Covered

Head Width – 43.46mm

Handle Length – 85.99mm

Diameter – 12.95mm

Availability – Alpha Shaving

Final Word – Enjoyable
 
Atelier Durdan Horizon – Rasoir Réglable AC (France)



While his machines are churning away turning out pieces for new razors, Augustin, the brains of Atelier Durdan probably uses that time to come up new ideas; not only is Augustin an idea’s man, but he also possesses the machining expertise to bring these ideas into fruition. With many AC razors, including Atelier Durdan’s own La Faulx razor machined to the bare bones and no excess material, I was surprised at just how physically large the dimensions of the Horizon head are. With that first observation revealed, I’ll endeavour to describe the razor in some detail. The Horizon is an adjustable AC razor that operates on a simple slide system to move the cap forward and aft thus offering adjustability. A spigot sliding in a groove in the plate engages in an angled channel in the cap to provide the adjustment. Positioning of the spigot is recorded against the numbers #1 to #8, allowing you to home in on your favoured setting. With the handle clamped down, everything is locked into position; loosening the handle permits adjustment without the necessity of disassembling the razor, however the handle must be tightened in the vertical position to ensure the slide does not move from its selected position. Ensuring that the cap maintains alignment with the plate in its movement forward and aft, side rails act as guides on the end of the cap. This is where the extra length of the head originates, the extra width comes from the adjusting mechanism itself. A round hole in the plate would prevent cap movement therefore an oval handle hole is utilized. A basic polished finish was requested at purchase and let me assure you that it has been very well executed, if you study the finish in detail, marks are visible under the polish, but the light must be in the right direction to see them. With everyone now suitably confused, it is time to insert a blade and try out this new powerhouse.



Smooooth is the simple description of this razor. Because I needed to start somewhere I selected level #6; just on the high side Karve CB Level #D efficiency with a pleasing amount of positive blade, smooth and comfortable. Moving down to level #5 on the slide resulted in a shave on the high side of Karve CB level #C and the shave was even smoother; midway between levels #5 and level #6 delivered my ideal setting for the Horizon. At all the settings used there was positive blade protrusion and as expected, the lower the setting number, the less the amount of positive blade. It is a physically large razor, especially in width, but at no time did its width interfere with the enjoyment of the shave. Without glasses I could not read the positioning numbers for the slide; larger engraving with an inlayed colour would greatly assist this old set of eyes. Second shave and I remembered to grab my glasses but still couldn’t read the numbers. Reflections on the polished stainless steel made it extremely difficult to read the numbers until the light was at the right angle. I now feel that the back of the plate should have a satin finish to eradicate the reflections. Atelier Durdan has delivered a well-engineered and true adjustable AC razor with a wide range of usable settings, this razor is good. Time to think about ordering a Titanium Horizon, maybe with a satin finish.

  • #2 – Mild – about Karve CB Level #B – positive blade and very usable
  • #3 – Over Karve CB Level #B - pleasant amount of blade feel
  • #4 – Karve CB Level #C – positive blade feel
  • #5 – High side of Karve CB Level #C – smooth, close and comfortable
  • #6 – High side of Karve CB Level #D – smooth, close and comfortable
  • #7 – Wild and certainly not smooth
Blades Used – Schick P-30 and Feather Professional Super

Material – 316L Stainless Steel

Weight – 114.4g

Blade Tab - Enclosed

Head Width – 50.05mm

Handle Length – 91.71mm

Handle Diameter – 12.51mm

Availability – Atelier Durdan

Final Word – A marvel
 
Errol said:
Atelier Durdan Horizon – Rasoir Réglable AC (France)



While his machines are churning away turning out pieces for new razors, Augustin, the brains of Atelier Durdan probably uses that time to come up new ideas; not only is Augustin an idea’s man, but he also possesses the machining expertise to bring these ideas into fruition. With many AC razors, including Atelier Durdan’s own La Faulx razor machined to the bare bones and no excess material, I was surprised at just how physically large the dimensions of the Horizon head are. With that first observation revealed, I’ll endeavour to describe the razor in some detail. The Horizon is an adjustable AC razor that operates on a simple slide system to move the cap forward and aft thus offering adjustability. A spigot sliding in a groove in the plate engages in an angled channel in the cap to provide the adjustment. Positioning of the spigot is recorded against the numbers #1 to #8, allowing you to home in on your favoured setting. With the handle clamped down, everything is locked into position; loosening the handle permits adjustment without the necessity of disassembling the razor, however the handle must be tightened in the vertical position to ensure the slide does not move from its selected position. Ensuring that the cap maintains alignment with the plate in its movement forward and aft, side rails act as guides on the end of the cap. This is where the extra length of the head originates, the extra width comes from the adjusting mechanism itself. A round hole in the plate would prevent cap movement therefore an oval handle hole is utilized. A basic polished finish was requested at purchase and let me assure you that it has been very well executed, if you study the finish in detail, marks are visible under the polish, but the light must be in the right direction to see them. With everyone now suitably confused, it is time to insert a blade and try out this new powerhouse.



Smooooth is the simple description of this razor. Because I needed to start somewhere I selected level #6; just on the high side Karve CB Level #D efficiency with a pleasing amount of positive blade, smooth and comfortable. Moving down to level #5 on the slide resulted in a shave on the high side of Karve CB level #C and the shave was even smoother; midway between levels #5 and level #6 delivered my ideal setting for the Horizon. At all the settings used there was positive blade protrusion and as expected, the lower the setting number, the less the amount of positive blade. It is a physically large razor, especially in width, but at no time did its width interfere with the enjoyment of the shave. Without glasses I could not read the positioning numbers for the slide; larger engraving with an inlayed colour would greatly assist this old set of eyes. Second shave and I remembered to grab my glasses but still couldn’t read the numbers. Reflections on the polished stainless steel made it extremely difficult to read the numbers until the light was at the right angle. I now feel that the back of the plate should have a satin finish to eradicate the reflections. Atelier Durdan has delivered a well-engineered and true adjustable AC razor with a wide range of usable settings, this razor is good. Time to think about ordering a Titanium Horizon, maybe with a satin finish.

  • #2 – Mild – about Karve CB Level #B – positive blade and very usable
  • #3 – Over Karve CB Level #B - pleasant amount of blade feel
  • #4 – Karve CB Level #C – positive blade feel
  • #5 – High side of Karve CB Level #C – smooth, close and comfortable
  • #6 – High side of Karve CB Level #D – smooth, close and comfortable
  • #7 – Wild and certainly not smooth
Blades Used – Schick P-30 and Feather Professional Super

Material – 316L Stainless Steel

Weight – 114.4g

Blade Tab - Enclosed

Head Width – 50.05mm

Handle Length – 91.71mm

Handle Diameter – 12.51mm

Availability – Atelier Durdan

Final Word – A marvel
Click to expand...
A little fingernail polish across the numbers, then scrape off excess with your fingernails, does the trick. FYI - I have been loving it too.
 
Errol said:
Atelier Durdan Horizon – Rasoir Réglable AC (France)



While his machines are churning away turning out pieces for new razors, Augustin, the brains of Atelier Durdan probably uses that time to come up new ideas; not only is Augustin an idea’s man, but he also possesses the machining expertise to bring these ideas into fruition. With many AC razors, including Atelier Durdan’s own La Faulx razor machined to the bare bones and no excess material, I was surprised at just how physically large the dimensions of the Horizon head are. With that first observation revealed, I’ll endeavour to describe the razor in some detail. The Horizon is an adjustable AC razor that operates on a simple slide system to move the cap forward and aft thus offering adjustability. A spigot sliding in a groove in the plate engages in an angled channel in the cap to provide the adjustment. Positioning of the spigot is recorded against the numbers #1 to #8, allowing you to home in on your favoured setting. With the handle clamped down, everything is locked into position; loosening the handle permits adjustment without the necessity of disassembling the razor, however the handle must be tightened in the vertical position to ensure the slide does not move from its selected position. Ensuring that the cap maintains alignment with the plate in its movement forward and aft, side rails act as guides on the end of the cap. This is where the extra length of the head originates, the extra width comes from the adjusting mechanism itself. A round hole in the plate would prevent cap movement therefore an oval handle hole is utilized. A basic polished finish was requested at purchase and let me assure you that it has been very well executed, if you study the finish in detail, marks are visible under the polish, but the light must be in the right direction to see them. With everyone now suitably confused, it is time to insert a blade and try out this new powerhouse.



Smooooth is the simple description of this razor. Because I needed to start somewhere I selected level #6; just on the high side Karve CB Level #D efficiency with a pleasing amount of positive blade, smooth and comfortable. Moving down to level #5 on the slide resulted in a shave on the high side of Karve CB level #C and the shave was even smoother; midway between levels #5 and level #6 delivered my ideal setting for the Horizon. At all the settings used there was positive blade protrusion and as expected, the lower the setting number, the less the amount of positive blade. It is a physically large razor, especially in width, but at no time did its width interfere with the enjoyment of the shave. Without glasses I could not read the positioning numbers for the slide; larger engraving with an inlayed colour would greatly assist this old set of eyes. Second shave and I remembered to grab my glasses but still couldn’t read the numbers. Reflections on the polished stainless steel made it extremely difficult to read the numbers until the light was at the right angle. I now feel that the back of the plate should have a satin finish to eradicate the reflections. Atelier Durdan has delivered a well-engineered and true adjustable AC razor with a wide range of usable settings, this razor is good. Time to think about ordering a Titanium Horizon, maybe with a satin finish.

  • #2 – Mild – about Karve CB Level #B – positive blade and very usable
  • #3 – Over Karve CB Level #B - pleasant amount of blade feel
  • #4 – Karve CB Level #C – positive blade feel
  • #5 – High side of Karve CB Level #C – smooth, close and comfortable
  • #6 – High side of Karve CB Level #D – smooth, close and comfortable
  • #7 – Wild and certainly not smooth
Blades Used – Schick P-30 and Feather Professional Super

Material – 316L Stainless Steel

Weight – 114.4g

Blade Tab - Enclosed

Head Width – 50.05mm

Handle Length – 91.71mm

Handle Diameter – 12.51mm

Availability – Atelier Durdan

Final Word – A marvel
Click to expand...
Great review as always. Yes ,it's a spectacular razor . For me, Augustin makes the best razors in the business.🖐️
 
Errol said:
Atelier Durdan Horizon – Rasoir Réglable AC (France)



While his machines are churning away turning out pieces for new razors, Augustin, the brains of Atelier Durdan probably uses that time to come up new ideas; not only is Augustin an idea’s man, but he also possesses the machining expertise to bring these ideas into fruition. With many AC razors, including Atelier Durdan’s own La Faulx razor machined to the bare bones and no excess material, I was surprised at just how physically large the dimensions of the Horizon head are. With that first observation revealed, I’ll endeavour to describe the razor in some detail. The Horizon is an adjustable AC razor that operates on a simple slide system to move the cap forward and aft thus offering adjustability. A spigot sliding in a groove in the plate engages in an angled channel in the cap to provide the adjustment. Positioning of the spigot is recorded against the numbers #1 to #8, allowing you to home in on your favoured setting. With the handle clamped down, everything is locked into position; loosening the handle permits adjustment without the necessity of disassembling the razor, however the handle must be tightened in the vertical position to ensure the slide does not move from its selected position. Ensuring that the cap maintains alignment with the plate in its movement forward and aft, side rails act as guides on the end of the cap. This is where the extra length of the head originates, the extra width comes from the adjusting mechanism itself. A round hole in the plate would prevent cap movement therefore an oval handle hole is utilized. A basic polished finish was requested at purchase and let me assure you that it has been very well executed, if you study the finish in detail, marks are visible under the polish, but the light must be in the right direction to see them. With everyone now suitably confused, it is time to insert a blade and try out this new powerhouse.



Smooooth is the simple description of this razor. Because I needed to start somewhere I selected level #6; just on the high side Karve CB Level #D efficiency with a pleasing amount of positive blade, smooth and comfortable. Moving down to level #5 on the slide resulted in a shave on the high side of Karve CB level #C and the shave was even smoother; midway between levels #5 and level #6 delivered my ideal setting for the Horizon. At all the settings used there was positive blade protrusion and as expected, the lower the setting number, the less the amount of positive blade. It is a physically large razor, especially in width, but at no time did its width interfere with the enjoyment of the shave. Without glasses I could not read the positioning numbers for the slide; larger engraving with an inlayed colour would greatly assist this old set of eyes. Second shave and I remembered to grab my glasses but still couldn’t read the numbers. Reflections on the polished stainless steel made it extremely difficult to read the numbers until the light was at the right angle. I now feel that the back of the plate should have a satin finish to eradicate the reflections. Atelier Durdan has delivered a well-engineered and true adjustable AC razor with a wide range of usable settings, this razor is good. Time to think about ordering a Titanium Horizon, maybe with a satin finish.

  • #2 – Mild – about Karve CB Level #B – positive blade and very usable
  • #3 – Over Karve CB Level #B - pleasant amount of blade feel
  • #4 – Karve CB Level #C – positive blade feel
  • #5 – High side of Karve CB Level #C – smooth, close and comfortable
  • #6 – High side of Karve CB Level #D – smooth, close and comfortable
  • #7 – Wild and certainly not smooth
Blades Used – Schick P-30 and Feather Professional Super

Material – 316L Stainless Steel

Weight – 114.4g

Blade Tab - Enclosed

Head Width – 50.05mm

Handle Length – 91.71mm

Handle Diameter – 12.51mm

Availability – Atelier Durdan

Final Word – A marvel
Click to expand...
@Errol , a superb detailed review that is a wealth of information for anyone keen on the new AD adjustable AC Razor. Like you mate, I totally agree that this razor is a superb and marvelous engineering concept, a first of its kind that delivers the goods in a classy manner. Having said that, I do find the head a tad bit bulky and I believe that the Ti version would make this one sublime shaver in terms of handling.
 
Errol said:
Atelier Durdan Horizon – Rasoir Réglable AC (France)



While his machines are churning away turning out pieces for new razors, Augustin, the brains of Atelier Durdan probably uses that time to come up new ideas; not only is Augustin an idea’s man, but he also possesses the machining expertise to bring these ideas into fruition. With many AC razors, including Atelier Durdan’s own La Faulx razor machined to the bare bones and no excess material, I was surprised at just how physically large the dimensions of the Horizon head are. With that first observation revealed, I’ll endeavour to describe the razor in some detail. The Horizon is an adjustable AC razor that operates on a simple slide system to move the cap forward and aft thus offering adjustability. A spigot sliding in a groove in the plate engages in an angled channel in the cap to provide the adjustment. Positioning of the spigot is recorded against the numbers #1 to #8, allowing you to home in on your favoured setting. With the handle clamped down, everything is locked into position; loosening the handle permits adjustment without the necessity of disassembling the razor, however the handle must be tightened in the vertical position to ensure the slide does not move from its selected position. Ensuring that the cap maintains alignment with the plate in its movement forward and aft, side rails act as guides on the end of the cap. This is where the extra length of the head originates, the extra width comes from the adjusting mechanism itself. A round hole in the plate would prevent cap movement therefore an oval handle hole is utilized. A basic polished finish was requested at purchase and let me assure you that it has been very well executed, if you study the finish in detail, marks are visible under the polish, but the light must be in the right direction to see them. With everyone now suitably confused, it is time to insert a blade and try out this new powerhouse.



Smooooth is the simple description of this razor. Because I needed to start somewhere I selected level #6; just on the high side Karve CB Level #D efficiency with a pleasing amount of positive blade, smooth and comfortable. Moving down to level #5 on the slide resulted in a shave on the high side of Karve CB level #C and the shave was even smoother; midway between levels #5 and level #6 delivered my ideal setting for the Horizon. At all the settings used there was positive blade protrusion and as expected, the lower the setting number, the less the amount of positive blade. It is a physically large razor, especially in width, but at no time did its width interfere with the enjoyment of the shave. Without glasses I could not read the positioning numbers for the slide; larger engraving with an inlayed colour would greatly assist this old set of eyes. Second shave and I remembered to grab my glasses but still couldn’t read the numbers. Reflections on the polished stainless steel made it extremely difficult to read the numbers until the light was at the right angle. I now feel that the back of the plate should have a satin finish to eradicate the reflections. Atelier Durdan has delivered a well-engineered and true adjustable AC razor with a wide range of usable settings, this razor is good. Time to think about ordering a Titanium Horizon, maybe with a satin finish.

  • #2 – Mild – about Karve CB Level #B – positive blade and very usable
  • #3 – Over Karve CB Level #B - pleasant amount of blade feel
  • #4 – Karve CB Level #C – positive blade feel
  • #5 – High side of Karve CB Level #C – smooth, close and comfortable
  • #6 – High side of Karve CB Level #D – smooth, close and comfortable
  • #7 – Wild and certainly not smooth
Blades Used – Schick P-30 and Feather Professional Super

Material – 316L Stainless Steel

Weight – 114.4g

Blade Tab - Enclosed

Head Width – 50.05mm

Handle Length – 91.71mm

Handle Diameter – 12.51mm

Availability – Atelier Durdan

Final Word – A marvel
Click to expand...
Great review, Errol.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top